Sensoji Temple, the center of sightseeing in Asakusa
Sensoji Temple is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Tokyo. Before Corona, until 2019, the approach to the temple was always overflowing with people, both domestic and international tourists. This is the first time in three years that we have had a summer vacation without travel restrictions. Little by little, Asakusa is getting back to its bustle.
The vermilion building is beautiful against the midsummer blue sky. There used to be a cherry tree in the left foreground of the photo… I accept that change is the way of the world (T_T).
Let me introduce a couple of long-established shops along the approach to the temple which is called Nakamise-dori.
right: Kameya, a Japanese confectionary who sells their rice crackers in traditional glass cases which catches the eye of the tourists.
left: Kimuraya, a Japanese confectionary established in 1868. They sell small sponge cakes with red bean past inside that shape in 4 different kinds; pigeon, 5-storied pagoda, thunder god and lantern.
center: Sukeroku, established in the late Edo era, they sell small hand made traditional Japanese toys. There is a famous story that Empress Emerita, Michiko bought their papier-march dog with a bamboo basket on its head, presenting it to Empress Masako when she was a pregnant praying for an easy delivery. Because, in fact, this is another play on words by the Edokko people, combining the kanji for “bamboo” 竹 and “dog” 犬 creates the kanji for “smile”or”laugh”笑!! Isn’t it cool!?
Unagi eel at Yakko
Well, it was the day of the Ox in Doyo. We went to “Yakko” in Tawaramachi to eat Unagi eel!
Yakko was founded in the Kansei period in Edo era(1603-1867). It is a long-established restaurant that has been visited by the famous Kaishuu Katsu and Soseki Natsume.
The rice is served rather thinly and carefully in a box, and the sauce is a rather light and elegant taste that enhances the flavor of the eel. Love!
The restaurant has retro-style table seating on the first floor and tatami rooms on the second floor.
“Doyo” and “the day of the Ox in Doyo”
What is Doyo anyway? When is it?
Doyo refers to the 18-day period before the first day of spring, summer, autumn, and winter, and marks the change of seasons.
Originally, it comes four times a year, but nowadays, only the summer Doyo is paid attention to and is widely known as one of the annual events.
Zatsusetu
“Zatsusetsu” are standard days signifying the changing of the seasons derived from the Chinese theory of Yin-Yang and the five elements. And Doyo is one of Zatsusetsu.
According to the Yin-Yang Five Elements theory, spring, summer, fall, and winter are ruled by wood, fire, metal, and water, respectively, and the 18 days of Doyo are considered to be the transitional period from the previous season to the next season, ruled by earth. That’s why a Kanji 土(earth) is used in the word Doyo.
Other than Doyo, there are *Setsubun, *Higan, *88 Nights, *Shanichi, *210 Days, and *220 Days in Zatsusetu. All of them are deeply embedded in Japanese people’s daily lives and are still listed on calendars today.
What are Doyo no Ushi?, the days of the Ox in Doyo?
In the lunar calendar, the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac are applied in order to the 365 days of the year.
Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Sheep, Monkey, Bird, Dog, Boar
Since there are only twelve animal signs, they are naturally repeated.
Since the Doyo period lasts for 18 days, the day of the Ox can come twice sometimes.
And this year, 2022, there is two Ox days in the summer Doyo!
July 20, the first day of Doyo (18 days before Rikka)
July 23: 1st Ox day
August 4: 2nd Ox day
August 6: End of Doyo (the day before Rikka, or *Setsubun) *There are actually four Setsubuns in a year.
August 7: Rikka (the first day of summer)
Why do we eat unagi eel on the day of the Ox in Doyo?
Foods with “U”
During this time of summer, the heat can cause poor digestion and loss of appetite, resulting in a loss of strength and an increased susceptibility to summer colds.
In the Edo period (1603-1867), it was believed that eating foods beginning with the letter “u” would help you stay healthy during the summer.
Umeboshi, pickled plums for fatigue, udon noodles for easy digestion, and uri, cucumbers or gourd family to cool the body down from the heat.
Thanks to Hiraga Gennai!
According to one theory, it was the scholar of Dutch studies and inventor Hiraga Gennai who, taking a hint from this, advised a eel shop owner, who was suffering from poor sales in summer, to “put up a sign saying ‘Doyo no Ushi no Hi (day of the ox in the summer)”.
In the Edo period, people also ate the first bonito of the season, saying, “If you eat them, you will live 750 days longer, ten-times longer than the time when you eat other first harvested food!”. Edo people loved to bring good luck and play with words, didn’t they?!
Gennai’s strategy was a great success! Since then, the custom of eating eel on Doyo no Ushi has taken root.
this is “Kawatoyo” on the approach to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. Whenever I go to the Narita area, I always visit this restaurant. There are several other popular restaurants in the area, and all of them have a long line of customers. Please come and try it!
Other matters related to Doyo
Ushi-yu, Soaking in the Bath
It is said that if you soak in a bath on the day of the Ox, you will not get sick.
This is especially good advice for those of us living in modern society to get through the summer in good health.
You wake up in the morning and hurry from your house to the train station, saying, “I’m late – I’m late. Body temperature rises. ↑
Sweat becomes cold in the air-conditioned train. Body temperature plummets. ↓
Get off the train and walk to the office. Body temperature rises. ↑
The company is air-conditioned and cool. Body temperature drops. ↓
Your body temperature rises and falls repeatedly during the day like this.
Soaking in a bathtub resets this cycle and returns your body temperature to its usual ideal level. If you only take a shower, your body temperature has not been reset.
It is recommended to take a bath not only on Ox days but also in the summer as long as you have time.
*The key points are the temperature of the bath water and ventilation, so be careful not to get overheated.
Others
Doyo shijimi (freshwater clam) — rich in taurine and effective in relieving fatigue.
Doyo-nami” — Rough waves come in spite of fine weather. A typhoon may be forming offshore far from Japan.
Doyo-boshi” — Drying clothes in the sun on a fine day after the rainy season to remove moisture. Take out not only clothes but also books and other items from the back and expose them to sunlight.
Kawagoe, Koedo in Saitama Prefecture, is also famous for its eels. The restaurant we visited this time was “Denbei”. Like Shinshoji Monzenmachi, Kawagoe also has a number of eel restaurants. If you visit Kawagoe, try their delicious eels!
Lastly
We eat eels on Doyo-no-Ushi-no-hi to survive the hot summer season, but I was really surprised to know that this has been a custom since the Edo era.
At first glance it may seem cruel, but eels are prepared with great care. The live eel is fixed to a cutting board, opened at once with a knife, and the bones and a liver are kept for separate use. The eel is skewered and then steamed softly in a steamer. Grilled over charcoal. It is dipped in sweet soy sauce and grilled again. Placed on rice. Pour the sauce over the top.
It is truly a life-serving dish. Thanks to the ell, we will be able to get through another hot summer. ごちそうさま! Gochisousama!
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